Thursday, March 10, 2016

Lace up back, instead of a zipper

In the midst of babies and the holidays I managed to stitch up a formal for a sweet young lady. Rather than putting a simple zipper in the back like usual, I decided to modify the pattern and put in a lace up back.

Yes. I am a glutton for punishment.

 It actually went together so much easier than I ever expected. The most difficult task was turning the skinny little strings. I thought it through and left it as one long strap until after it was turned. I did buy a loop turner which helped tremendously.

I sliced 2 inch segments and used some leftover bias tape to organize my loops. I measured what length I needed, then drew lines on the bias tape an inch apart, so I could put each loop within that inch. It took a lot of pinning but felt stable. I did 2 lengths - one for each side of the back dress opening. I even got picky enough that I made sure the seams on the loops all went one direction on one side and the opposite direction on the other.

I stitched the length of the bias tape to secure the loops to the tape. Then I pinned the loop length into the dress to baste. You notice it was turned the wrong way? The basting stitches attach it first to the dress and will be hidden once the dress is completed.

A quick baste on one side, then the other, checking to be sure the loops match up to one another. Turned the length out and topstitched. This makes the loops stitched extra secure as they are sewn three times. Once to the bias tape, then basted into the dress and finally topstitched. The final stitches go right on the very edge of the bias tape or just over, so that the tape is NOT seen. To be sure, I pulled on all the loops. Those babies are secure!

Now if I could just slow down lenough to hide my clumsy handstitching on the lining which finished covering the construction of the 5 layer bodice and princess lacing.

Modesty is very important. I made a simple triangle-ish shape, attached modesty panel to be sure the young lady's back would be properly covered. To firm up the panel, I tucked a short piece of boning at the top, inner edge. When it is flipped over you won't see the stitches securing it, yet the boning holds the modesty panel straight across without sagging.

Modesty panel before turning right side out
I take the most awkward pictures

My camera trashed the color of the finished back of the dress. It is a gorgeous bright blue. Thankfully, you get the idea of the transformation, goofy color and all.

Now to find a way to de-glitter my sewing space

Now how to clean all the glitter up from my sewing space .....

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